What did you BUY today?

Since my brother and I decided to grab a Multi Region blu-ray player for the back room (@NormanicGrav's fault entirely for convincing us), I decided to order Discotek's Actually, I Am bluray. I also stuck a preorder in for the upcoming Lupin III bluray they're releasing. Both through WOWHD.
 
can anyone who has gotten that Blu-ray player tell me what its PQ is like? I've been told the device has a sharpen feature you cannot turn off so was curious what that does to the PQ.
 
Well, today has not been a fun day. A few days ago, I decided to buy a really nice looking computer case I saw in a Linus Tech Tips video. Fast forward to today, and it arrived. It took me a few hours but I took all my hold hardware out of my old case and put it in my new one, managed all the cabling nicely and then powered it on and ... nothing! There was 0 power going to the PC. After hours and hours of troubleshooting, including rewrireing my front IO 3 times, changing screws around, putting it back in the old cast, and shorting my PSU, I finally found out that, somehow, I think I killed my motherboard in the process of transferring everything over. I am honestly gutted. The cast was already a rather hefty £85, and not I've had to buy another motherboard and some thermal paste for when I transfer the CPU over, which cost around £45. Now, I am just assuming that's going to magically fix everything. If that doesn't work, I am genuinely stumped. My biggest dear is probably buying this new motherboard, it not working, and then the fix being something I could've done without dumping almost fifty quid on new complements. Needless to say, I am rather pissed.
 
Could be a short from improper standoff grounding. Take everything out of the case and try it on a table/ other non conductive surface and see if you HAVE managed to fry something before ruling out an issue with the case itself
 
unknownfate said:
Could be a short from improper standoff grounding. Take everything out of the case and try it on a table/ other non conductive surface and see if you HAVE managed to fry something before ruling out an issue with the case itself
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How do I turn it on without the case? I can't short it because the 24 pin needs to be hooked up.
 
IncendiaryLemon said:
How do I turn it on without the case? I can't short it because the 24 pin needs to be hooked up.
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Couldn't you just pull the case over and plug the power switch cable into the mobo or is it not long enough? I also believe you could just short the pins that the power button connects to but it's been quite some time since I've done that and no idea how safe it actually is.
 
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My thought exactly. The idea is try and power it on without the motherboard in the case. Just the CPU, RAM and CPU fan are required. If you can boot to the BIOS then it's a issue with the case if not it's an issue with in order of likelihood:

1. Motherboard
2. CPU
3. RAM
 
Hmm, I'll try it tomorrow before I opt for the new motherboard. I have it on order, but if I no longer need it, I can probably return it if its kept sealed. Probably also worth noting I tried putting it back in the old case and it still didn't work.
 
IncendiaryLemon said:
Hmm, I'll try it tomorrow before I opt for the new motherboard. I have it on order, but if I no longer need it, I can probably return it if its kept sealed. Probably also worth noting I tried putting it back in the old case and it still didn't work.
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If you didn't remove the standoffs from the old case you can likely rule out it being an issue with the case
 
This might sound like a stupid question but further to what fate said... Did you use mounting screws for the motherboard and nylon washers? Did you remove any excess mounting screws that didn't line up? The nylon washers are often overlooked because the screw sections are isolated. Do you use an antistatic wristband?

Do you get any kind of light on your motherboard? Do any fans momentarily spin up? What brand psu do you have?
 
serpantino said:
This might sound like a stupid question but further to what fate said... Did you use mounting screws for the motherboard and nylon washers? Did you remove any excess mounting screws that didn't line up? The nylon washers are often overlooked because the screw sections are isolated. Do you use an antistatic wristband?

Do you get any kind of light on your motherboard? Do any fans momentarily spin up? What brand psu do you have?
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Nylon washers? I have stand offs in but I saw no washers or anything in the box. Excess mounts were indeed removes and there is 0 activity at all when pressing on. It may as well not even be plugged in. My PSU is an Evo Labs Cronus 750watt Semi Modular.
 
Therein lies the main issue- you can't be certain of a person's technical knowledge. You could assume they know nothing that anyone carrying out a hardware swap or upgrade has at least a basic understanding of the procedures (anti static, grounding, pin positioning etc)

On another note there's the option of clearing the CMOS, it's unlikely to help since you haven't made any mention of installing new hardware but it won't make things worse.

I'm fairly adept when it comes to PC and electronics in general but a faulty motherboard managed to fry a few of my CPUs before I caught on.
 
I wouldn't say I know nothing. I've fitted 2 or 3 cases before, and I've made numerous upgrades to my Package before, I've just never ran into an issue like this before.
 
IncendiaryLemon said:
Nylon washers? I have stand offs in but I saw no washers or anything in the box. Excess mounts were indeed removes and there is 0 activity at all when pressing on. It may as well not even be plugged in. My PSU is an Evo Labs Cronus 750watt Semi Modular.
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Do you have a multimeter you can use to test the psu output? Washers aren't used so often nowadays but I still buy them and use them on every build I'm hired for. Even though the screw points are somewhat isolated having a better insulating layer is always good.

No power whatsoever is more suggestive of the psu than motherboard as you'll normally get a very brief moment of life as the power moves across the circuit (fans often nudge when the cpu is shorted for instance) or the motherboard light. Have you reset the cmos via the jumper or battery removal? Did you use the same psu across both cases?


I always suspect psu first as people cheap out on them (it's the most important component really) and you get a lot of issues with poor quality capacitors etc, the corsair cx range (green) are a common trap people fall into (rubbish psu's, you may as well buy an unbranded) evo labs could fall into this too really. I always go for a gold efficiency rated psu or above now as it tends to signify higher quality components and otherwise you're wasting a lot of power as nothing but heat and bronze standard can be easily accomplished nowadays. (I personally lean heavily towards seasonic boards).

Not wanting to sound critical but the replacement motherboard you've gone for sounds cheap too which is fine but I wouldn't advise overclocking if you tend to do that as the mosfet chips tend to be low quality and not radiated.

edit: sorry for any doubles that unknown fate had already asked
 
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serpantino said:
Do you have a multimeter you can use to test the psu output? Washers aren't used so often nowadays but I still buy them and use them on every build I'm hired for. Even though the screw points are somewhat isolated having a better insulating layer is always good.

No power whatsoever is more suggestive of the psu than motherboard as you'll normally get a very brief moment of life as the power moves across the circuit (fans often nudge when the cpu is shorted for instance) or the motherboard light. Have you reset the cmos via the jumper or battery removal? Did you use the same psu across both cases?


I always suspect psu first as people cheap out on them (it's the most important component really) and you get a lot of issues with poor quality capacitors etc, the corsair cx range (green) are a common trap people fall into (rubbish psu's, you may as well buy an unbranded) evo labs could fall into this too really. I always go for a gold efficiency rated psu or above now as it tends to signify higher quality components and otherwise you're wasting a lot of power as nothing but heat and bronze standard can be easily accomplished nowadays. (I personally lean heavily towards seasonic boards).

Not wanting to sound critical but the replacement motherboard you've gone for sounds cheap too which is fine but I wouldn't advise overclocking if you tend to do that as the mosfet chips tend to be low quality and not radiated.

edit: sorry for any doubles that unknown fate had already asked
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I jumped the PSU with a paperclip, and the PSU showed activity, with the fan spinning and such, so I'm convinced that's not the issue. The motherboard I bought is identical to the one I have no. Haven't done anything with the battery, didn't think that was a potential issue.
 
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